The name of the game here is simple: backstage beauty from all angles. ITG’s photographer, Tom Newton, will be pounding the pavement all week, snapping models, chatting with makeup artists and hairstylists, and sharing his take on it all. You know the drill, so let’s get to it, shall we? Check back all week for more.
CUSHNIE ET OCHS
Tom’s Take: I showed up late to this show and payed the price. When I got to Milk, all the girls were gone, the artists were gone, and it was just like…dead silent. I found manicurist Alicia Torello, who was painting a round of press-ons for four models who were added to the line-up last minute (using Louboutin colors La Favorita and Sevillana). The scene was throwing all the beauty people behind a bit. Bless Shanina and Aneta for making time and most likely pissing off some dresser/coordinator types and letting me take a quick beauty shot. The look was what I’d call vampy. This was the second Maybelline show this Fashion Week and they’re turning it out. Here they used The Nudes palette and one of the Lip Studio Color Blurs in Plum, Please to great affect on both counts, with a heavy coat of mascara on top. The eye was super beautiful and the lip very bold. The hair was a double pony—the second so far this fashion week, but too early to call it a trend. I’m all for it, for the record. It’s fun—even here where it was a sleek and minimal one.
Tom’s Take: Nude nails, p-e-r-f-e-c-t red lip, messy bobby pin-less bun. Very to-the-point and kind of sexy. Deborah Lippmann handled the clean nude nail, which on some girls were a bit long and glamorous (point to you Anais for keeping those up). The hair also, I could rave about—Odile for Kerastase skipped the bobby pin bin this time and opted for clear elastics, all wrapped over and around a beautiful semi-tousled bun right in the middle of the back of each girl’s head. As she put it, “The neck is very sexy.” Yadim, Mr. Dark Glamour, reeled it in a bit with very bare skin and a very precise lip created with two liquid Maybelline colors and perfected with lots and lots of concealer around the edges. The final step for the lips was some pure powder pigment. Yes, Maybelline makes pure pigments; but no, you cannot get your hands on them—unless you are Yadim.
Odile Gilbert (Kerastase): “Only rubber bands. No pins. We want it to kind of, to be more modern fashion. It’s a bit of the way they do the chignon themselves. They don’t use bobby pins. They use only elastics. Me, I have no hair, so I’m not a good example. [Laughs] We are using the new product from Kerastase called Crème de la Crème Blow Dry Control Cream. We are wetting the hair and putting a lot of this in. It’s not greasy, but it’s not dry. Grab all the hair together and put in an elastic—twist the whole thing. Do another elastic, another elastic nonstop. It’s very important that the chignon is perfect right above the ear. Keep it as small as possible.”
Yadim (Maybelline): “I love using my finger for a lip. I feel I get a really, really precise application. Sometimes for me—with a brush—it can look a bit off sometimes. Far be it for me to deny someone else wanting to do that, but if you have a way you like to do it, like straight from the bullet or if it’s with a brush, or a toe—if it works well for you then absolutely do it! There’s no rules! After mixing Color Sensational Vivid Matte Liquid in Rebel Red and Berry Boost, I’m using a really loose, dry, powder pigment—a red one—and just pressing it into the middle of the lip. It’s going to be this really interesting velvet highlight. It’s not very comfortable for the models to wear though, which is why we are doing it in the lineup right before the girls go out.”
Tom’s Take: Stuff girls can actually do! I heard this at least five times backstage at Adam Selman. Maybe that’ll be a theme this season—the fashion world does like to take it from over-the-top to nothing-at-all and skip the in-between. The Adam Selman girl is very real though, and I think the beauty look reflected that. The collection seemed to be inspired by some sort of vacation—I saw tropical shirt prints and hazy Venice Beach colors. Jimmy Paul for Bumble did a very cool but simple double ponytail, twice tied with colorful shreds of fabric from the collection—all sort of untouched looking. Emi Kaneko for MAC created a very effortless ‘boy-ish’ makeup look. If boys were good at contouring and subtle highlighting. I think what made it boy-like was the flat brow. Think the opposite of an old Hollywood-esque (or Jack Nicholson) very expressive, arched brow. This one’s a grumpy, flat brow. Brad Pitt sorta comes to mind. The nails by Madeline Poole for Sally Hansen felt like a riff on last season’s rick-racking. She used a pencil with a nail in its eraser to create little navy-colored dots on each nail for a very 101 Dalmatians feel. Madeline also mentioned the dots looking like little bugs crawling across your nails. The end look was playful but understated.
Emi Kaneko (MAC): “So the look is really about the skin. A lot of highlights and a very strong brow with a little bit on contouring on the cheeks and the eyes. We are using a little bit of this Studio Sculpt Defining Powder, the new Veluxe Brow Liner, and then the Cream Color Base in Pearl and Climax just on the cheekbones and the inner corners of their eyes. We finish it off with a flush colored retro Matte Lipstick. It’s matte, but there’s still a little bit of a shine. Also, no lashes. Just putting a little bit of Elizabeth Arden Eight Hour Cream so we give it a bit of shine. It’s a tomboy kind of vibe just to balance out some of the sweet, girly clothing and marry it all together. It’s more masculine than feminine with that tougher, thicker brow. I feel a straight brow is more of a badass look.”
Madeline Poole (Sally Hansen): “It’s a navy blue dot in Dark Hue-mor that is placed randomly on each nail. And then we made this tool out of an actual nail to make the dots. It’s stuck on the back of an eraser to make a better utensil. You stick into the color and you lightly tap it onto the nail. It makes a perfect circle and then we topcoat it so the whole nail is encased in clear. The best tip I can give is to not press too hard. You just have to have quite a lot of paint at the end of the nail and really lightly tap it so that it doesn’t smush the color and bleed out. You can do it, it just takes a bit of finesse.”
Jimmy Paul (Bumble and bumble.): “The look is very, very real. We didn’t use any extensions or dryers or curling irons. The two products I used were the Bb. Prep and the Bb. Thickening Hairspray, and that was just to coax the natural wave. Then we just did these really simple double ponytails. It’s supposed to be a ‘look’ in the same way as you’d pull off a crazy hat, if you’re that kind of woman.”
SOURCE: Into The Gloss – Read entire story here.